EVO Double D Bolt-on 4″ Long Arm Kit

EVO Double D Bolt-on 4" Long Arm Kit

I purchased an EVO Double D Bolt-on 4″ Long Arm kit (alt)about a year ago.  It’s a bolt on or weld on option, so it fit what I needed being in Alaska.  I would have liked to have welded it on but being in Fairbanks and not knowing a competent welder it was a great option for bolt on.

In the last year I have experienced a few problems with this system. The first and major problem with this system is spring bow. I fully understand the rear spring bow due to moving the axle back for better centering of the axle. My problem has come with the front axles. It has been a pain in the ass to find a remedy for the drivers side spring that continues to bow. I have adjusted the caster all the way up to 5.0* positive and the results are the same. The passenger side does not bow at all. I’m still working on a solution for this problem and have spoken to the manufacturer directly. Their solutions are compromise pinion angle, shim the front perch, or grind the back of the spring down. The first one makes the most sense but I’m running 4.3* positive caster with a pinion angle of 8*. I’m not trying to kill my drive line. Shimming the perch seems like a satisfactory option to resolve the mechanical issue, but one that would come at the cost of safety.

EVO Double D Bolt-on 4" Long Arm KitThe second issue I have with this system is the ability to run more aftermarket under armor, exhaust ext. This kits brackets are huge, bolt into the factory cross member, and are touching the factory exhaust. I have researched other kits and their brackets are much smaller allowing better clearances for a wider variety of aftermarket under armor. I have had to shim multiple things to keep it from rattling on my exhaust.

Now on to the good things. I love the ride characteristics of this kit. It’s so smooth and comfortable that my daughter fell asleep on a 10 hour drive on the Dalton Highway. It absorbs everything that I have handled, from whoops on the road, to potholes that I didn’t see until too late. I can run 70 plus MPH on the worst roads in Fairbanks, Alaska and its a beast.

EVO Double D Bolt-on 4" Long Arm KitThe ability to adjust this kit without taking the arms off makes it even better. The ability to throw it on an alignment machine and dial it in makes this lift kit phenomenal. Finding the right wrench is fun but when you do the ease is great. Just pop loose the pinch bolt and give small turns and boom you’re done in no time.

All in all I have mixed feelings about this kit its a great comfortable kit but it has more gremlins than I’d like to worry about with a 5000 dollar kit. EVO customer service is great and will not hesitate to call back or help. If I had to do it again I would do more homework on other kits and may have bought differently.


If you are looking for a kit that has an awesome ride, great flex and ease of adjustability, this is a great kit for that. Expect to have to shim and adjust every little small detail to get it dialed in just right.

Remove Moisture from Offroad Lights

Remove Moisture from Offroad Lights

We’ve all seen it:  Moisture inside offroad lights.  It’s annoying and concerning at the same time.  Luckily it’s a simple cause and an easy solution.

A set of my Larson Electronics Flood Lights (alternate link)were showing signs of internal moisture a few months ago.  I called Larson and asked what the best practice would be to remediate the issue.

According to Larson Electronics (alternate link) (A massive manufacturer of ultra-high quality lights of all shapes and sizes) the leading cause of water finding its way into offroad lights that are supposedly sealed tight is the moisture being wicked up the wire and into the light housing from either manufacturers defect or installation defect.

I had cut the plug off of my lights and wired up the pigtails: A huge no-no and definitely the source of the moisture.

My first step was to insure power was disconnected from the lights.  I did this by simply disconnecting the wires from the improper pigtail job I had done.

Remove Moisture from Offroad LightsSecond, I removed the front cover from each light pod.  Make sure you use the proper tool for this and if you are unsure of how to do it contact the manufacturer of the light and ask for instructions.  Be aware:  This may void any warranty the lights have but so might improper installation causing moisture to be wicked up into the light….

I then wiped out what moisture I could, blew out the rest with my shop air compressor and let it sit for a few hours wide open to air out.  If the day you choose to do this on is a particularly humid day you may have faster drying times by removing the lights and bringing them into an air conditioned room for a few hours as air conditioned air should be drier.

Remove Moisture from Offroad Lights Remove Moisture from Offroad LightsOptional step:  I went ahead and put two small silica gel packets in a safe spot inside my lights to absorb any remaining moisture (I live in Georgia – it’s always humid here).

For those worried about the packet catching on fire:  If your lights get hot enough to ignite your silica gel packets, you have more serious issues to worry about.  LED lights should never get above 150 degrees.  LED lights HATE heat – keeping them cool will drastically increase their life.

Remove Moisture from Offroad LightsCarefully close up the light and be very mindful of any rubber seal.  You’ll want to make sure that the seal is 100% back in place and not pinched in anyway.  Any compromise of the seal will result in moisture infiltrating into the light again.


Preventing Moisture in the Future

Remove Moisture from Offroad Lights Remove Moisture from Offroad LightsSince the moisture infiltrates through a wicking mechanism through unsealed wires, we obviously want to prevent that.  The best way I have found is to use plugs that are IP67 rated.  This means they will hold out water when submerged to 1 meter of water for up to 30 minutes.  Luckily, these types of plugs are easy to use and fairly cheap.  I use MUYI brand plugs as a standard.  Currently a pack of 10 sets of 2 pair MUYI IP67 plugs costs $11 on Amazon.  The crimper tool is $24.  I’m actually in the process of swapping out all of my after-market wiring in my Jeep to this standard.

IP67 plugs seal the contacts in the plug with waterproof seals.  The crimp insures the plug is waterproof around the wire itself.  Together this makes your wires waterproof.  You’ll need to make sure you use the proper wire gauge for the crimp to make a solid seal around the wire sheath.

Follow me on Instagram @DoozerJK


Winch Safety Starts With Your Winch and Bumper

Winch Safety Starts With Your Winch and Bumper

We all hear about winch safety but we always assume the winch we use is safe.  But winch safety starts with what it is mounted to:  The bumper.  The fact of the matter is:  Not all winches or bumpers are made the same.  We all know this but we rarely look into which winches or bumpers are safer than the others.

This past weekend I learned that a winch and bumper can break and that it can break in a catastrophic, unsafe way:  Unsafe to the vehicle and more importantly the people in the vicinity of the winch.

I’m not talking about the cable breaking.  Having a synthetic winch line doesn’t make your winch safe.  Having a well-built winch on a well-built bumper is the foundation to safe winching.

Taking it one step further, the foundation to your winch is really where it starts.  What you mount your winch to is very important.  A cheap bumper can flex which can cause the type of catastrophic failure in the image to the right.  Every winch relies on the strength of the plate on which it is mounted to for its strength.  Without a 1/4 inch thick plate the winch will torque when it pulls a load.  This is why every winch manufacturer requires a 1/4 inch plate for the winch mount.

Before anyone decides they know better and assumes I was winching up a cliff while dragging 3 other jeeps behind me or using the winch as a snatch strap, the winch in this post was broken while winching the vehicle it was mounted to: a 2012 Jeep Wrangler 2-door.  The Jeep was struggling for traction (yes, it was aired down to 12 PSI) while trying to go up the final obstacle on the most passenger-side line of the trail called “Playground” at Choccolocco ORV Park in Jacksonville, AL.  To get a look at the exact obstacle check out this post from Josh V aka “@Vandecon” on Instagram. The Jeep wasn’t able to get traction to get over the final obstacle and in the interest of keeping the traffic flowing on the trail it was decided to just winch.

Winch Safety Starts With Your Winch and BumperIn the image to the right, the winch was mounted to a bumper that had 3/16 inch thick steel that was trussed under the winch.  On the passenger-side winch mount, the bumper is pulled up over 2 inches.  Whether or not the bumper failed first by flexing or the winch failed first by breaking under the torque from the lop-sided pull is open to discussion (forum link or comments below) but one could easily argue that if the bumper was 1/4 inch it would have added to the strength of the entire system.

That’s right:  The winch and the bumper form a system.  The weakest point in that system will be the first to fail and it will start a cascade of failures like you see above.

Luckily the events of this weekend resulted in no injuries but imagine if the climb required the winch to prevent the vehicle from tipping.  The winch would have ripped off and the electric cables would have come with it too and the vehicle would have toppled over to roll down the mountain with the occupants hanging on for dear life.  All because the vehicle builder went with a cheap winch or a cheap bumper.

Lesson Learned: Winch Safety Starts With Your Winch and Bumper

The lesson learned from last weekend is to not cut corners on the quality of the bumper or the winch.  Because I chose to go a less-expensive route I not only jeopardized my safety but I am now also out of a winch and a bumper – Smittybilt will not offer warranty on the winch because I did not heed the mounting requirements of the winch despite having a lifetime mechanical warranty on the winch.  Time to start saving my pennies to start over with a quality-built winch and bumper!  Lesson learned!

The winch that broke appears to have a chassis that is made of low quality steel.  The edges that broke, exposing the interior portions of the chassis, show that the steel was very granular and low-grade.  The high granularity of the material makes it prone to fracturing like I experienced first hand.

I could have also have used a snatch block/pulley to reduce the direct load on the winch.  This would have halved the load on the winch and placed the other half of the load on one of the shackle mounts on the bumper.


More photos to come when I remove the bumper and winch to see the full extent of the damage.  Follow me on Instagram @DoozerJK

Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment

Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment

A common symptom of installing a lift kit on a Jeep JK Wrangler is misalignment of the wheels and axles.  Increasing the gap between the axle and the chassis (the goal of a lift kit) has a lot of effects on how the Jeep handles, steers, and rides.  Common lift kits are simply new shocks, coils, and maybe sway bar links – they leave the drag link, control arms, and track bars completely unchanged.  Since those three components connect the axle to the chassis and the gap between the axle and chassis increases, obviously something has to give.  So here is some information that will help you to even out your axle and wheel alignments after installing a lift kit.

Alignment Definitions

Straight from the JK service manual are these definitions.  See the diagram below the text definitions for a visual on each type:

CASTER is the forward or rearward tilt of the steering knuckle from vertical. Tilting the top of the knuckle rearward provides positive caster. Tilting the top of the knuckle forward provides negative caster. Caster is a directional stability angle. This angle enables the front wheels to return to a straight ahead position after turns.

CAMBER is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel relative to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the top of the wheel inward provides negative camber. Tilting the top of the wheel outward provides positive camber. Incorrect camber will cause wear on the inside or outside edge of the tire. The angle is not adjustable, damaged component(s) must be replaced to correct the camber angle.

WHEEL TOE POSITION is the difference between the leading inside edges and trailing inside edges of the front tires. Incorrect wheel toe position is the most common cause of unstable steering and uneven tire wear. The wheel toe position is the final front wheel alignment adjustment.

STEERING AXIS INCLINATION ANGLE is measured in degrees and is the angle that the steering knuckles are tilted. The inclination angle has a fixed relationship with the camber angle. It will not change except when a spindle or ball stud is damaged or bent. The angle is not adjustable, damaged component(s) must be replaced to correct the steering axis inclination angle.

THRUST ANGLE is the angle of the rear axle relative to the centerline of the vehicle. Incorrect thrust angle can cause off-center steering and excessive tire wear. This angle is not adjustable, damaged component(s) must be replaced to correct the thrust angle.

Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment

Recentering The Steering Wheel

An uncentered steering wheel is caused by changing the distance between the axle and the body of the vehicle.  This happens, obviously, when a lift is installed.  The drag link which connects the pitman arm to the steering knuckle on the axle stays the same length while the distance it is required to span increases so something has to give.  The pitman arm swinging to the right and taking the steering wheel with it is the common cause of the steering wheel not being centered after a lift.  Adjusting the drag link to recenter the steering wheel is the best option to correct the steering wheel alignment.  While this may seem like a difficult job, it’s actually something very easy to do.

You will need a 15 mm socket and ratchet to match or equivalent.

  1. Park your Jeep on a flat surface, engage the parking brake and/or chock the wheels, and attempt to center the wheels as best you can.  You can use a long and straight piece of wood or other straight material such as metal pipe, and run it along the side walls of the front and rear tires on one side of the Jeep to check the centering on the front tires:  If the sidewalls make contact with the piece of wood in 4 places, the front tires are as straight as they can be.
  2. Loosen the two 15 mm nuts that secure the turnbuckle on the drag link.
  3. Once loose enough to turn by hand, rotate the turnbuckle to expand or retract the drag link.  Turning it up (towards the front of the Jeep) will turn the steering wheel to the left and doing the opposite will turn the steering wheel to the right.
  4. Once the steering wheel is as close to center as you can adjust, tighten both 15 mm nuts on the turnbuckle.
  5. Take the Jeep out for a spin around the block to test the steering wheel alignment and make adjustments as necessary.  This may take you a few rounds to get it just perfect.

Align the front tires by setting the Toe In

This is the actual alignment that most people think about when they hear front end alignment.  On the JK, Toe In is not affected by installing lift kits.  Toe In, however, can be affected by installing a new tie rod or damaging a tie rod by bending it.  It doesn’t take much of a bend to drastically affect the toe in.  Having an improper toe in can cause major tire wear problems, greatly reducing the life of your tires.  See this great video that explains Toe In by Engineering Explained:

You will need the following items to adjust your Toe In:

  • Measuring tape
  • 15mm socket and ratchet to match, or equivalent
  • Chalk (optional)
  • Assistant (optional)
  1. Park your Jeep on a flat surface, engage the parking brake and/or chock the wheels, and attempt to center the wheels as best you can.
  2. Measure to the center of the tread of the front tires, front and back of the front tire.  You are trying to find the center line of the tread.  Mark this spots with chalk.  These spots will be your points of measurement.
  3. With your optional assistant helping, use the measuring tape to measure the distance between the left and right front spots and the left and right rear spots.  The difference is your toe in distance (if the front distance is longer than the rear, this would be “toe out”).
  4. Start your motor and turn your steering wheel all the way to the right and then left and then center the steering wheel as close to center as you can so that when you release the steering wheel it is resting in the center.
  5. Using the 15 mm socket or equivalent, loosen the 15 mm nut on the clamp that secures the adjuster on the tie rod found on the driver’s side (stock tie rod).
  6. Turn the adjuster by hand to make your toe in measure 1/16th of an inch.  That is, the measurement of the distance between the front spots is 1/16th of an inch shorter than the distance between the two rear spots.  You will need to measure both as you make adjustments as the measurements of both will change as you make the adjustments:  Retracting the tie rod will reduce the measurement between the front spots and increase the measurement between the rear spots.
  7. Once your Jeep is sitting at 1/16th of an inch of toe in, carefully tighten the 15 mm nut on the adjuster clamp to 45 ft/lbs of torque while ensuring the tie rod doesn’t move while doing so.

Re-centering The Front Axle

Sometimes known as centering the thrust angle.

Installing a lift on a Jeep Wrangler JK will shift the axles off the center line of the entire vehicle.  The track bars are the primary culprit for this.  The track bar connects the frame of the jeep to the axle and is designed to keep the axles from floating left or right under the jeep.  The front track bar swings down and to the driver’s side and the rear track bar swings down and to the passenger’s side.  Lifting the vehicle will cause the track bar to swing down and to its swing direction, taking the axle with it.

You can install a track bar relocation bracket that matches the amount of the lift you installed.  You’ll need a bracket in the front and rear to align your thrust angle properly.  Typical front track bar relocation brackets attach to the axle and raise the axle-side mount of the track bar and typical rear track bar relocation brackets are drop brackets that mount to the chassis-side mount of the track bar.

The other alternative is installing adjustable track bars.  This is preferred as you can really dial in and precisely adjust them whereas the relocation brackets are hard set at a certain drop amount.  Over time, the coils in your lift may start to sag causing a set of relocation brackets that were perfect to be not-so-perfect.

This guide assumes you have adjustable track bars.  You will need the following tools to recenter your front axle:

  • Measuring Tape
  • Carpenter’s Level
  • 21 mm socket and ratchet or equivalent (You may need a 2 or 4 inch extension)
  • Crescent wrench
  • Small Ruler (optional – you can use a measuring tape instead)
  • Assistant (optional)
  1. Measure the amount of axle offset you have.  Do this by placing the carpenter’s level vertical against the side wall of your front axle aligned with the center of the wheel.  Once you are certain that the carpenter’s level is level, use your tape measure to measure the distance between a predetermined point on the chassis/body of the jeep, such as your fender flare, and the inside edge of the carpenter’s level.  Measure like this again on the other tire.  Then calculate the offset.  If your passenger side tire sticks out 2 inches and the driver’s side sticks out 4 inches, then you have a driver side offset of 1 inch.  You would need to extend your front track bar by roughly 1 inch.  To calculate, subtract the two measurements and divide by 2.  Your offset direction is the direction the axle sits further out on.
  2. Remove the bolt that secures the front track bar to the axle mount using a 21 mm socket.  There is a flag nut on the far side so you won’t need a second tool.
  3. Break the tension on the jam nut on the track bar so that you can turn it by hand.  Continue turning it by hand until it touches the track bar end.
  4. Measure the gap between the inside of the jam nut and the track bar edge.  This is your baseline measurement.
  5. Rotate the track bar end in or out, depending on the offset you need to adjust for calculated in step #1.  If your baseline measurement was 1.5 inches and you need to extend your trackbar 1 inch to make up for a driver’s side offset you would need to extend the track bar until the new measurement is roughly 2.5 inches.
  6. Once satisfied with the adjustment, tighten the jam nut back against the track bar edge using a crescent wrench.
  7. You will need to turn the steering wheel slightly to get the track bar to line up with its axle mount.  It is advised to do this with the engine off.
  8. Once the track bar lines up with its axle mount, use the 21 mm socket to tighten the bolt to 125 ft/lbs of torque.
  9. Take your jeep around the block to settle the adjustments out.  Remeasure the offsets and readjust as necessary until the offset is 0 inches!

Setting Caster

Another symptom of a lift kit install is a wandering sensation, especially at highway speeds.  The Jeep won’t feel like it wants to stay on a straight path.  The stock Jeep caster is positive 4.2 degrees.  Installing a lift kit will reduce the caster angle and will make the steering feel neutral – in that when you release the steering wheel it doesn’t want to straighten out as much as it used to.  Too much positive caster will cause the joints in the drive shaft to bind up and cause vibrations in the drive line.  The video below by Engineering Explained does a great job explaining the effect of caster.

This guide assumes that you have adjustable control arms.  Adjustable upper and lower control arms are preferred for maximum configuration but you can get away with either a set of adjustable upper or a set of adjustable lower control arms.  Adjustable lower control arms are more expensive but easier to adjust due to their accessibility from where they are installed on the Jeep.  To set caster, you will need the following tools:

  • Jack Stands  (Safety first.  Seriously, buy a set.  You don’t need anything insane… the average 2 door JK weighs roughly 4,600 pounds.)
  • Chock Blocks
  • Floor Jack, scissor jack, bottle jack, or a jack of some sort that can lift from under the axle.
  • Crescent Wrench
  • Angle Finder
  • 18 mm socket with ratchet or equivalent
  • Assistant (optional)
  1. Park your jeep on a level spot, as level as possible and chock the rear tires.  Put the angle finder on the ground in the same orientation that you intend to make measurements off of your Jeep. that you have parked at and note any measurement that is not 0 degrees.  This will be your baseline angle offset.
  2. Place the angle finder on your driver’s side top ball joint in the same orientation that you measured the ground off of. and measure the angle.  This is your Jeep’s current caster angle relative to your baseline angle offset that you measured off the ground in step #1.  Subtract your baseline angle offset from the measurement from your ball joint to get the true caster angle.
  3. If your measurement is not 4.2 degrees positive (leaning towards the back of the Jeep) then use a crescent wrench to loosen the jam nuts on your adjustable control arms.
  4. Remove the bolt and nut securing the passenger side adjustable control arm to the axle mount using the 18 mm socket and ratchet or equivalent.  Pull the control arm out of the mount.
  5. Turn the control arm end to adjust the length.  If it is an upper control arm you will need to shorten it to increase the amount of caster and lengthen it to decrease the amount of caster.  If it is a lower control arm you will need to lengthen it to increase the amount of caster and shorten it to decrease the amount of caster.  COUNT HOW MANY ROTATIONS YOU MAKE because you will need to apply exactly that many rotations to the other side!
  6. Place the end of the control arm in the axle mount as best you can.  It will likely not line up at this point.  If your axle needs to rotate counter-clockwise from the perspective of the passenger side, place your floor jack or equivalent under the pinion base for the lower control arm and gently raise the axle until the holes line up.  If your axle needs to rotate clockwise, place your floor jack as close to the passenger side tie rod end/joint as possible and gently lift until the control arm end lines up with the axle mount.
  7. Loosely secure the control arm end with the bolt and nut.  DO NOT TIGHTEN yet.  Leave it loose.
  8. Repeat steps 4, 5, 6, and 7 with the driver side control arm.  For the sake of clarity, if you adjusted the length of the passenger side upper control arm, you must adjust the driver side upper control arm!
  9. Recheck your caster angle once you have adjusted both sides of the upper/lower control arms.  If satisfied, tighten the nuts and bolts on the control arm mounts to 75 ft/lbs of torque.
  10. Tighten the jam nuts on the adjustable control arms.

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